Tuesday, 13 August 2013

0045 Cloncurry to Winton 4th August

While at the Cloncurry rodeo last night we had found out that they had a breakfast and bush poetry readings taking place from 8 am till about 11 am, and as I love my Banjo Paterson poetry (remember Mulga Bill’s Bicycle when I fell of my bicycle in the USA last year ?), and am not impartial to a good breakfast, we packed up early at Wal’s Camp, and went back down to the rodeo grounds.

A great breakfast with the normal eggs and bacon and sausages in a roll, as well as THE most delicious lamb stew – Soooo good !  Then they started reading and reciting bush poetry, and the locals doing it ranged from about 10 on upwards, and we had a train driver, a farmer, a local teacher, and this character called Keith who we are not sure what he did, but he had grown up in the bush, and was just hilarious.  Others were good honest yarns about the bush. We have seen on this trip how Aboriginal rock art is a way of passing down dreamtime stories for future generations – Well, I am learning that Aussie Bush poetry is one Australian way of doing the same thing. It is a big thing in the country – They have competitions quite frequently, and one competition even has the winners going to the USA to compete in their Cowboy Poetry and yarn competitions.  Very interesting.

After that, it was off towards Winton, about 350 kms east.   Leaving Cloncurry we got a photo of the sign saying that Cloncurry had Australia’s highest ever recorded temperature of 53.7 deg C in 1889 !!  We then passed these poor cattle crowded round a water hole, but with little or no grass to eat at the moment because of the drought conditions here this year. Some quite long road trains continue to pass us regularly – 53.5 metres is I believe the maximum allowed, and they have a total cargo weight allowed of in excess of 75 MT.  Those back trailers sway around  a fair bit on these narrow roads – Overtaking them is quite fun, and should be completed as quickly as possible !!!

While the scenery is pretty bleak, there is quite a lot of Australian history on this route, and after 100 kms we came to McKinlay, which was made famous in the Crocodile Dundee movies because the pub here was the famous Walkabout Pub, from where Mick Dundee and Walter Riley ran their infamous Never Never Safari tours !!  The town itself is just a tad bleak – And the little lock up shed in the garden beside the Police Station, complete with bars on the windows, was a sight to see.  Then, as we pulled up at the Walkabout Pub for a beer (well, it was nearly lunch time !!), two fully loaded 4WD’s with big trailers pulled up – It was Fred Brophy’s travelling Boxing Circus !!  For those of you that don’t know, in the past there were lots of these Boxing Circus’ travelling around all the country shows and rodeo’s, with their own fighters offering to box or wrestle any locals who thought they had a chance to win and make some money.  For obvious reasons in our modern cotton wool world, like so many other similar travelling institutions of the past, these have died out, and Fred Brophy’s is the last, and is very well known just because it has persisted.  So to see them pull up at Mick Dundee’s Walkabout Pub, and come into the bar for a beer, was too good an opportunity to miss !! They were en route to the Mt Isa Rodeo the following weekend.

A little further down the road we stopped for lunch, as did half the Australian Army !!!  We had seen some tanks passing us into Mt Isa yesterday, but it turns out half the Aussie Army is currently moving from Townsville to Darwin (where this lot are currently based), after being on manoeuvres in Townsville for several months.  Imagine doing that whole route, on these boring straight roads, and not allowed to go over 80 kmh !!!    Also in the car park we found two brolgas (kind of Aussie bush storks, similar to the Jabiru’s we had seen in Kakadu) – Kind of incongruous, but you get that in the bush !!

 This is Banjo Paterson /  Waltzing Matilda county round here, and we saw the pub where Banjo had first seen squatters and a swagman etc that gave him the idea for the song. Not far up the road we turned some 10 kms up a dirt road to the Combo Waterhole on the Diamantina River system, which is supposedly the Billabong in the song, complete with a shady Coolabah tree !!  Which we duly sat under to take photos !! Winton, where we will be tonight, is where the song was first performed in public !

Driving on along the often straight and boring road, we saw emus, bustards, wedge tailed eagles, and the usual hoards of kites around the many dead ‘Roos beside the road.  The Winton area is also famous for dinosaur fossils, and is in fact the scene of the only known evidence in the world of a dinosaur stampede !  There are frequent mesas beside the road which only serve to make the whole dinosaur thing very realistic !

Suddenly BANG –Another rock thrown up by a passing truck smacks into the windscreen, this time on my side, and make a big star – I think this one night spread into a big crack !!  Hmmm. 

Shortly afterwards we came into Winton – a small town based on cattle – and past several large and well preserved old hotels (pubs) in town as we headed to our campsite.  As we set up, we were surprised to see the site owner walking around with a little Alpaca !  Chocolate – And not even as big as Trooper !!   Cute !

After our supper, we went off to the central shed where two ladies were putting on an hour or two of bush poetry and fun, and it was excellent.  In Australia, quite a lot of campsites have travelling people entertaining others on a busking basis, and at the end of the night you put some money in their bucket if you think they were worth it.  These ladies were excellent, and like others, they do it not only because they enjoy it, but also to make a little extra income to support them while they travel. I never saw this in the USA, but we have now seen it several times on this trip, and it really is an excellent idea, and makes for a fun evening in the camp sites.

 And so to bed.  We will explore Winton and the dinosaurs tomorrow !
 
 

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